Frequently Used Terms & Asked Questions About Bonsai Trees

Practiced for centuries in China and Japan, bonsai is the reproduction of natural tree forms in miniature. Bonsai trees are living miniature trees which increase in beauty and value as they mature over the years.

How often should I water my bonsai tree?
Unlike a houseplant, bonsai trees use a "free draining" type of soil because their roots cannot tolerate "wet feet". In addition, they are grown in significantly less soil and, therefore require more watering. Factors such as tree location, temperature, lighting conditions, quantity of soil used, and the changing seasons will determine the frequency of watering. You can get to know when your tree needs to be watered by observing the foliage, testing the soil with your index finger just below the surface, or just by the weight of the pot. (The drier the tree, the lighter it will feel.) To take the guesswork out of watering, we recommend an inexpensive moisture meter which works very much like a thermometer. Insert it into the soil and the movement of the needle will tell you if it is time to water.   I highly recommend a moisture meter for beginners and people who are not used to caring for house plants.  Go To Moisture Meter

How often should I fertilize my bonsai tree?
Because bonsai trees are cultivated in limited amounts of soil, adequate feed is very important. As a general rule, a small amount of feed is given in the spring and a larger amount in the fall. Feed for bonsai should contain three principle ingredients; nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash. It is also a good idea to use a fertilizer containing "chelated" iron. Water before fertilizing your tree and then apply at half the strength recommended by the brand's manufacturer. We rotate the use of brands since different manufacturers add different amounts of trace elements and minerals. We also add Superthrive which is a vitamin supplement to our fertilizer mix.   Beginners may find it easier to use slow release fertilizer granules (placed over the soil), whose nutrients are released with each watering.   Go to Fertilizer

How often should I mist my bonsai tree?
All trees grow in more humid conditions than those of our homes, offices and dormitories. So what can we do to provide this essential humidity?  Misting the tree is only beneficial for a short time, so what we recommend is to place the tree on a humidity tray and add water to the tray. As the water in the tray evaporates it creates a humid environment around the tree 24 hours a day. When the water in the tray is gone, add more water. It's a good idea to separate the pot from the water in the tray by adding some pebbles to the bottom of the tray. This will prevent any roots from sitting in the water.   Appropriate humidity / drip trays are available to add to your bonsai purchase

How much sunlight is required for my bonsai tree?
Sunlight, especially the ultra-violet ray, affects the growth of trees. Therefore, except in special cases such as immediately after repotting, extensive trimming, etc, bonsai should be placed in a sunny location. Bright light will also work well but the tree should not be placed more than 12" away from the direct light source. An east, west or southern exposure works best. A northern exposure will require the use of "grow lights" which should remain on up to 16 hours each day and the lamp should not be more than 2 inches from the top of the tree. Incandescent light is too hot and will not provide the various spectrum of light that is required to maintain your bonsai tree. If you do not have a window or light source that provides an east, west or southern exposure, be sure to select a bonsai tree that does well in lower lighting conditions.

How is miniaturizing a tree possible?
No one single technique is adequate to make a tree small. The fact that the tree is grown in a container, the trimming, pruning, repotting and other care given the tree -- all contribute to the final result of limited growth. Dwarf trees are often found in a natural environment, but in bonsai this environment is provided artificially. Bonsai are grown in shallow containers the size of which determines the amount of soil the roots are able to grow in. This environment definitely restricts the growth of the roots and its functions.

How do I trim and prune my bonsai?
The main objective of trimming and pruning is to shape the bonsai into the desired form and to reduce growth above ground in order to maintain a balance with root growth. The process of shaping begins when the tree is very young and is on-going as it continues its growth. Trimming is accomplished by using a sharp scissors or shears. This traditional tool is called butterfly shears or bonsai shears and is used for removing foliage and light branches. When heavier branches are removed, we call it pruning and the tool to use is the concave cutter, for which there is no substitute. The concave cutter allows you to remove small, medium and even large branches without leaving any visible scars. Some trees such as the Juniper should be trimmed by using the thumb and index finger to remove new growth and to prevent browning and a "sheared" appearance.  Go to Bonsai Tools and Accessories

How do I prevent diseases and insects from infecting my bonsai?
As living trees, bonsai are susceptible to insect attacks and disease.  Preventive and corrective measures include (a) keeping your bonsai in good health, since insects and bacteria tend to attack weak trees, (b) giving your tree ample light, fresh air and ventilation, (c) keeping the soil free of spent blooms and fallen leaves etc. You may also use an insecticidal soap spray which is not harmful to humans or animals. This soap derivative, however, may require more than one application to control the insect population. It's also a good idea to use this spray weekly to prevent any attacks.


How do I train my bonsai?
Wiring, a relatively modern method of training bonsai trunks and branches into the desired forms, has become commonly accepted. It is often used in place of, or in conjunction with the traditional methods of long-term pruning and hemp-rope binding. Copper wire that has first been annealed in a low-temperature fire is preferred. After it has cooled, it is wrapped around the branches in the direction the branch is to be bent. The branch should be bent once into its final position so as not to harm the cambium layer under the bark. The wire should be wrapped taut, but not too tight, and should be removed just before it bites into the branch -- between 6 and 12 months. The wire is removed with a bonsai wire cutter by snipping the wire at each turn, thereby allowing the cut pieces to fall to the ground. Never unwind the wire or use pliers to cut the wire, since this will damage the branches.  Go to Wire

What is bonsai soil and why is it used for bonsai?
As noted previously, potted trees do not do well in soil that is always wet. Potting soil and top soil are heavy soils that can remain wet for weeks.  Bonsai soil is a mixture of ingredients which allows the water to drain freely and at the same time, retain moisture. In addition, the ingredients allow the roots to breathe air and prevent compaction. There are two basic types of bonsai soil -- a conifer mix and a tropical/sub/tropical mix. Before adding any soil mixture, be sure to cover the drainage hole(s) with screening to prevent the soil from washing out of the pot. When re-potting, it is always best to use the soil mixture in its dry state.  Go to Soil

How often should I re-pot my bonsai tree?
All potted plants will eventually outgrow their containers. While houseplants need to be "up-potted", that is, placed in larger and larger containers, we maintain the miniaturization of a bonsai tree by keeping the roots confined to the small container.

On average, repotting will be necessary every 3-5 years, but the tree should be removed from its container and its root system inspected once a year.
If the roots form a circular ball around the perimeter of the pot, it is time to trim the roots and repot.

When repotting remember to:
(a) use only bonsai soil
(b) remove air pockets by working the soil down through the roots
(c) do not remove more that 20% of the root system
(d) repot during the appropriate repotting season
(e) water well and keep out of the sun for a week or two after re-potting.

BONSAI TERMS – An excerpt from “ALL ABOUT BONSAI” By Tom Regan
 
Having a working familiarity with bonsai terminology will enable you to effectively express all facets of your bonsai activities to others, both more and less skilled than yourself, in the bonsai community. The following list of words and definitions will help you on your way to becoming fluent in the unique language of bonsai:

1. Accent Plant - a small plant that is put on view in conjunction with a bonsai; usually when a bonsai is being formally displayed at a show or exhibition; also called a companion plant.
2. Air Layer - a method for propagating trees through the removal of a large branch or section of trunk from an existing tree, or bonsai, to create a new tree.
3. Akadama - a traditional Japanese bonsai soil that is comprised of the red volcanic matter of Japan; used for thousands of years by bonsai artists on most types of deciduous bonsai trees.
4. Apex - the very top or highest point of a bonsai tree.
5. Back budding - a process of encouraging new growth on a branch where growth is currently non-existent.
6. Broadleaved - trees, mainly deciduous, with broad, flat leaves; non-conifer trees.
7. Bunjin - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called literati. This is a tree that has a tall, slender trunk with foliage growing only near the top; illustrating maturity and the casting off of material things.
8. Buttress - the area of a tree trunk where the roots meet the soil surface; usually styled to convey strength.
9. Callus - the scar tissue that forms over a wound where a branch has been pruned off of a tree; it is part of the tree's healing process.
10. Cambium - the thin layer of green colored cell tissue growing between the bark and the wood of a living tree.
11. Canopy - all of the upper-most branches that form the top of a tree.
12. Chokkan - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called a formal upright. This is a tree that has a very straight trunk with symmetrical branching; illustrating strength and order.
13. Collected tree - finding and taking a tree from its natural habitat; a tree that has been shaped by the forces of nature alone.
14. Conifer - a tree that bears cones; mainly evergreen trees such as: pines, cedars, spruces and junipers.
15. Cross - a hybrid resulting from cross-fertilization between species or varieties.
16. Crown - the upper section of a bonsai where the branches spread out from the trunk.
17. Cultivars - cultivars are plants that have features desirable to the person "cultivating" them. These desirable characteristics have been deliberately selected and can be reliably reproduced in plants under controlled cultivation.
18. Cut-leaved - a bonsai that has leaves which are shaped in very distinct segments.
19. Deciduous - a tree that has a seasonal growth cycle where new foliage is produced in the spring, then grows throughout the summer, turns colors in autumn, and drops in the winter, leaving buds on the branches for next spring's new foliage.
20. Defoliation - the practice of removing all leaves to encourage new shoots and potentially smaller leaves.
21. Dieback - the death of the tips of branches, or whole branches, due to extreme weather or possibly one of several diseases.
22. Divided leaf - a leaf formed of separate sections that emerge from a common base.
23. Division - a method of propagating shrubs by carefully dividing the root ball and replanting the separated sections.
24. Dormant - the period of the year when little or no growth occurs; usually late autumn and throughout the winter months.
25. Dwarf - a variety or cultivar that is smaller than the species tree, but retains all of the characteristics of a full size species tree.
26. Evergreen - a tree or shrub that retains its leaves throughout the year.
27. Fertilizer - is "food" for trees, shrubs and plants; usually comprised of NPK: Nitrogen for the foliage, Phosphorous for the roots, and Potassium for the flowers.
28. Foliage pad - a mass of foliage on a branch; sometimes referred to as a cloud.
29. Fruit - the part of a plant that carries the seeds; usually berries or fleshy or pod like.
30. Fukinagashi - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called windswept. This is a tree that has its trunk and branches swept back in one direction; illustrating a tree exposed to very forceful winds.
31. Genus - a unit of classification for a group of closely related plants.
32. Germination - the moment a seed starts into growth, developing roots and shoots.
33. Girth - the circumference of the trunk of a tree, measured at just above the root base.
34. Grafting - is a commonly used method for propagating trees, when propagation by seeds or cuttings is impractical or impossible.
35. Han-Kengai - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called semi-cascade. Where the branches and trunk of a tree are swept down to one side, but not below the top lip of the container; illustrating a tree subject to violent winds and weather.
36. Hardy - a term used to describe trees capable a withstanding winter frost.
37. Hokidachi - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called broom. Where the trunk is straight with symmetrical branches and has its foliage arranged in a semi-circular dome or broom shape.
38. Humidity - the amount or degree of moisture in the air.
39. Internodal distance - the length of stem between two nodes or leaf joints.
40. Ikadabuki - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called raft. Where the tree is laid on its side and its branches are trained vertically and arranged in a group formation.
41. Ishitsuki - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called root over rock. Where the tree has its roots arranged so they have grown over and in the crevices of a rock.
42. Jin - is a branch, which has been stripped of its bark and cambium to represent a dead branch; illustrating great age or harsh conditions.
43. Juvenile foliage - the young leaves of a tree that produces two distinct shapes of leaves; the second type being mature foliage.
44. Kabudachi - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called clump. Where the trees' trunks all grow from the same point on the root mass and are more crowded in appearance than a regular group planting.
45. Kengai - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called cascade. Where the branches and trunk of the tree are swept to one side and hang below the container; illustrating a tree on the edge of a mountain cliff subjected to fierce winds.
46. Leader - the main shoot at the top of a tree, usually indicating the uppermost continuation of the trunk.
47. Lime Sulpher - a chemical used to whiten or bleach a section of stripped branch or trunk in order to preserve a jin or shari.
48. Loam - a soil mixture comprised of clay, sand and organic matter.
49. Mame - a term used in size classification of bonsai trees; this being a small bonsai.
50. Moyogi - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called informal upright. Where the trunk curves through its taper up to the apex.
51. Nebari - the exposed surface roots of a bonsai.
52. Needle - a type of leaf that is narrow and usually of a stiff texture, like those found on a black pine tree.
53. New wood - a stem or twig on a bonsai that originated during the current season's growth.
54. Nitrogen - an essential element of plant nutrition; identified by the chemical symbol N; aids in growth of stems and leaves.
55. Node - the point on a trunk or branch where the leaf buds emerge.
56. Old wood - a stem or twig on a bonsai that originated during the previous season's growth or at an earlier time.
57. Peat - partly decomposed organic matter; when it is used as an ingredient of potting soil it assists in moisture retention.
58. Perlite - a form of volcanic rock that is heat treated to develop a lightweight, coarse granule that when used as a component of potting soil has advantageous ventilation and water retention properties.
59. Phosphorous - another essential element of plant nutrition; identified by the chemical symbol P; aids in development of roots, ripening of fruits and seeds.
60. Pinching - is a technique used in bonsai cultivation of controlling and shaping the growth of foliage by pulling off soft new shoots with the finger and thumb in a pinching motion.
61. Potassium - the third essential element of plant nutrition; identified by the chemical symbol K; it encourages strong new growth, development of flower buds and fruit formation.
62. Pot-bound - the adverse state of a container grown plant where the root growth has filled the container to the extent of eliminating all vital air spaces.
63. Prostrate - the characteristic growth habit of a plant that naturally tends to grow along the ground instead of upright.
64. Pruning - the process of controlling the shape and growth rate of a tree by cutting back the shoots, stems and branches.
65. Raceme - a type of elongated flower that is composed of individual stalks all growing from a central stem; ex. Flower type found on wisteria trees.
66. Ramification - the dense branching structure of a bonsai that only develops after years of repeated pruning of the branches.
67. Repotting - the practice of replanting a bonsai tree at regular intervals to perform health maintaining tasks such as: root washing, inspecting, pruning, soil refreshing, and potting in a different or larger pot; all imperative to the health of a bonsai.
68. Rootball - the large mass of roots and soil visible when a tree is taken out of its pot or pulled from the ground.
69. Root pruning - the practice of cutting back the roots of bonsai in order to make room in the container for fresh soil and to encourage new root growth.
70. Rootstock - is the root system and main stem to be used as the base of a new tree when propagating through grafting.
71. Scion - is a small section of a tree, which contains all of the desirable characteristics of the parent tree that will be propagated into a new tree through grafting on top of the rootstock.
72. Shakan - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called slanting. Where the trees' trunk, appears similar to the formal upright style, but the trunk is slanting to one side.
73. Shari - an area where the bark and cambium have been removed from the trunk to suggest the struggle against fierce weather such as: wind, lightning, snow and ice.
74. Species - the unit of classification for a plant with identifiable characteristics.
75. Suiseki - stones that appear to look like large boulders or mountains and represent the spirit or essence of each; sometime used in a formal bonsai display.
76. Taproot - the large root of a tree that grows vertically downward, anchoring it into the ground; it is usually referred to in bonsai, because of its need to be pruned shorter or removed for container cultivation.
77. Tokonoma - a Japanese tradition of creating a specific area in the home where bonsai, accessory plants, Suiseki, and scrolls are displayed together in harmony.
78. Wound sealant - a number of compounds formulated to seal cuts made on branches or the trunk of bonsai to prevent the loss of moisture and promote heeling.
79. Yamadori - trees collected from the wild, which have been shaped by nature alone and have been collected to be developed into bonsai.
80. Yose-ue - a traditional Japanese bonsai style; also called a group or forest. Where the trees are arranged in a container to resemble a group or forest of trees.